Estimating Gem Weight

 

Compliments of
The International Gem Society

 


 

   You cannot weigh a gem in a setting and it is rarely worth removing. Instead, you can get a close approximation of the weight by the gem’s volume.

   When using this approach, careful measurements are a necessity. Careful observation is also important. All these weights are adjusted by the stones proportions and it takes a trained eye to make those judgments.

 

Step 1

   Measure the gem carefully in every direction. Record all your measurements and the stones shape, making special note of its proportions. Look up the specific gravity for the stone you are examining.

 

Step 2

   Apply the proper formula for the gem.

 

ROUND

   Diameter X diameter X depth X SG X .0018

 

OVAL

   Diameter X diameter X depth X SG X .0020

   (Diameter = average of diagonal, length and width.)

 

SQUARE

   Diameter X diameter X depth X SG X .0024

   (Diameter = average of diagonal, length and width.)

 

SQUARE CUSHION

   Diameter X diameter X depth X SG X .0018

   (Diameter = average of diagonal, length and width.)

 

SQUARE step cut

   Diameter X diameter X depth X SG X .0023

   (Diameter = average of diagonal, length and width.)

 

SQUARE with cut corners

   Diameter X diameter X depth X SG X .0024

   (Diameter = average of diagonal, length and width.)

 

 

RECTANGLE

   Length X width X depth X SG X .0026

 

RECTANGLE step cut

   Length X width X depth X SG X .0025

 

RECTANGLE with cut corners

   Length X width X depth X SG X .0026

 

RECTANGULAR CUSHION

   Diameter X diameter X depth X SG X .0022

   (Diameter = Average length and width)

PEAR

   Length X width X depth X SG X .0018

 

HEART

   Length X width X depth X SG X .0021

 

MARQUISE

   Length X width X depth X SG X .0017

 

TRIANGLE

   Length X width X depth X SG X .0018


 

CABOCHONS

   The actual range for flat-bottomed cabs is .0023 to .0029. Those with a bottom bulge range from .0024 to .0030. As a rule, use the following formulas:

 

High domed cabs

   Length X width X depth X SG X .0026

 

Low domed cabs

   Length X width X depth X SG X .0029


 

 

Step 3

   The above formulas are for well-proportioned gems with a medium/thin girdle. Make the following adjustments as required.

 

GIRDLE

   Use an average of the girdle thickness. Do not base your reading on a bulge at the top of a heart, or the point of a gem.

 

   Thin girdle, subtract 1% to 2%

   Slightly thick, add 1% to 2%

   Thick, add 3% to 4%

   Very thick, add 5% to 6%

   Extra thick, add 7% to 10%

 

PAVILION BULGE

   Slight, add 3% to 5%

   Noticeable, add 6% to 8%

   Obvious, add 9% to 12%

   Extreme, add 13% to 18%

   A long culet due to steep pavilion angles can add up to 5%

 

SHAPE OUTLINE

   On cut corner square and rectangle, wide corners can decrease weight as much as 5%.

   Oval, pear, marquis, and heart, wide wings or high shoulders can add up to 10%. Occasionally, straight shoulders will require a deduction of 1% to 5%.

   Marquis and sometime pears will have a very short keel, or none at all. This will reduce the weight by 1% to 3%.

   Triangles with straight sides will require a reduction of up to 10%.


 

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