Creating Ring Mountings For Deep-Cut Gemstones

A Barion cut is perfect for bringing out a gemstone's brilliance. Finding standard ring mountings that complement this deep cut can be a challenge. “Aquamarine. 1.3 ct. Barion Emerald cut.” © Dan Stairs Custom Gemstones. Used with permission.
A Barion cut is perfect for bringing out a gemstone’s brilliance. Finding standard ring mountings that complement this deep cut can be a challenge. “Aquamarine. 1.3 ct. Barion Emerald cut.” © Dan Stairs Custom Gemstones. Used with permission.

Question

I’m getting a handle on the standard cuts from “Faceting The Easy Way.” I think I’m ready to move on to a Barion cut. I’d really like to try a Barion emerald cut. Before I do this, I need some advice. I’ve noticed something that might be a problem. What type of ring mountings do you use for these gems? For most of my faceted stones, I use mounts from Tripps. These have worked just fine. However, the Barions look a bit too deep or “full cut” to fit these ring mountings.

Thanks in advance,

David

Answer

Your observation is spot on. Most Barions are too deep for standard ring mountings. The two simplest solutions are:

  1. Go ahead and buy the mount you like best. Have a backup gem ready in case your Barion doesn’t fit. Since the mounts take calibrated stones, gems that fit are easy to come by.
  2. Tripps also makes special ring mountings for deep-cut gems. The selections are limited. However, you can buy the deep settings as heads and solder them to an appropriate ring shank, pendant bail, etc.

If you don’t know how to do this, don’t worry. Soldering is an easy thing to learn. Soldering will also expand your jewelry making capabilities considerably. You’ll be able to combine pre-made parts into custom designed ring mountings. This will expand your possibilities by several thousand!

Best wishes,

Donald Clark, CSM IMG

Soldering is an excellent way to create ring mountings and other jewelry settings designed for unique pieces. “Jewelry (4 of 14)” by Jeffrey Putney is licensed under CC By 2.0
Soldering is an excellent way to create ring mountings and other jewelry settings designed for unique pieces. “Jewelry (4 of 14)” by Jeffrey Putney is licensed under CC By 2.0