The demand for extra-fine emeralds with no clarity enhancements has skyrocketed. This motivates dealers like me to search for stones suitable for cleaning and recutting, which may then qualify for lab reports with the elusive declaration: “no indications of clarity enhancement.” This 11.22-ct, natural Shakiso emerald was a potential candidate.
By Jeffery Bergman, SSEF SGC 2 minute read

Emerald Transformation, Step 1: Cleaning

This Shakiso, Ethiopian emerald with a minor clarity enhancement had only one major issue: a reflective fracture on its corner. This only came to light after a thorough cleaning. Fortunately, Colombian emerald cleaning and treating experts Consuelo “Connie” Infante Galindo and her husband, gemologist Darwin D Fortaleché (formerly of CDTEC Bogotá, now Guild Gemlab Bangkok), accomplished this tricky task. Thorough cleanings often require weeks of soaking in various solvents.

Consuelo “Connie” Infante Galindo and Darwin D Fortaleché, from Bogotá, Colombia. Photo by Jeffery Bergman. © of Bangkok.

Emerald Transformation, Step 2: Recutting

Bangkok is also blessed to be the new home of one of the world’s finest emerald cutters, Mª ︎”Mafe︎” Fernanda Argotty, a second-generation lapidary artisan also from Bogotá, Colombia. Not surprisingly, I chose Mafe to take on this difficult and important project. After several days carefully studying the emerald, she plotted out the stone and formulated a course of action with the goal of finishing over the pivotal, price-critical 10-ct marker.

Completely eliminating the reflective fissure meant removing one corner of the stone. Therefore, the entire emerald had to be recut in order to maintain a pleasant and well-balanced final shape. With skill and expertise, as well as specialized equipment imported from Israel, Mafe finished the stone at 10.17 cts. This was a loss of only 1.05 cts, or slightly less than 10%, so we celebrated with some freshly brewed Japanese green tea!

recut gem

Finished at 10.17-ct. Photo by Mª ︎“Mafe︎” Fernanda Argotty.

Getting the Lab Report

Next came the challenge of obtaining a report with no indication of clarity enhancement from a respected lab. Not surprisingly, the first submission came back with an indication of insignificant residue in a surface-reaching fracture left over from the cutting process. This was unacceptable, so the stone went back to Connie and Darwin for re-cleaning.

incidental residue in fissure

Insignificant incidental residue from cutting process in a surface-reaching fissure. Photo by Darwin D Fortaleché.

After another week of waiting patiently, Darwin issued a Guild Gemlab report stating the emerald was “laboratory clean.” However, for buyers of exceptional no-oil emeralds, just one lab report never suffices. So, we were also relieved to receive two more “no clarity enhancement” reports, from Bellerophon Gemlab, signed by Martial Curti and emerald expert Dr. Dietmar Schwarz, as well as from ICA GemLab, signed by Kenneth Scarratt.

emerald transformation - finished gem with no clarity enhancement

The finished, exceptional 10.17-ct Shakiso, Ethiopian emerald with no clarity enhancement. Photo by Jeffery Bergman. © of Bangkok.