Is Jadeite Expensive?
13 Minute Read
When discussing how gemstones are valued, jadeite is one of the more complex species to analyze. This is because people from various cultures value different traits. What some consider to be the most important characteristic may not matter much to buyers living on the other side of the world. What is constant is that fine jadeite is one of the most expensive gemstone varieties overall.
In 2014, the Hutton-Mdivani necklace which was made of twenty-seven jadeite beads sold for $27.4 million dollars. That's about a million dollars per bead. Jadeite fetches such astronomical prices because to some individuals, particularly people from China, jadeite is not just a gemstone - it's an obsession.
For the purposes of this article, value characteristics will be listed in order of importance for American buyers. However, as we progress through each section, we will explain how Asian collectors rank that trait.
The Most Important Value Characteristic for American Jadeite Collectors is Color
When North American buyers are looking to acquire fine jadeite, they are focused mostly on color. Jadeite has a wide range of colors depending on the chemistry of the stone. You will see gems that are lavender, brown, yellow, gray, red, orange, black, and white. However, the hue that gets the most attention is green.
One might think that evaluating jadeite's green color would be a straightforward process. It is not. Gems that are almost identical with only a slight variation in their color expression may have extreme differences in valuation, as collectors are very sensitive to the subtlest differences in green jadeite. To help people keep track of all the possible variants of green, there are a ton of tradenames that describe different colors. Jadeite gems with a mottled color that have lightly colored spots are called "Flower green". You might see pale green stones referred to as "melon jade". "Apple green" is a rich color with a noticeable contribution of yellow.
With all of these options and more available, it is interesting that everyone around the world agrees that there is an ideal green color of jadeite called "Imperial" jade. Imperial jade is a very specific bright green hue which may have a small contribution of either yellow or blue and has a medium tone which is neither dark nor overly light. It is this very rare color that fetches those crazy per-carat prices.
After green, many buyers look for naturally purple stones whose hue is referred to as "lavender". This soft color with a mild saturation is both gentle and sophisticated. While Imperial jadeite is the highest valued color of jadeite, lavender gems often are valued higher than green jadeite that expresses the other possible shades.
There is a great deal of overlap in terms of value of the other, less expensive, colors of jadeite, so choosing what to buy comes down to personal preference. Some people value the boldness of black jadeite while others are drawn to gray gems. Still others like multi-colored jade. You will find gems that combine white and green or green and orange. There are even stones that present three or more hues like lavender matched with both green and white.
Texture
For devoted Western collectors, texture is the second characteristic of jadeite that they consider. This is not true of East Asian buyers. For them, texture is everything!
If you were not raised around high-quality jadeite, texture can be difficult to understand. East Asian individuals have viewed jadeite as divine for many centuries and they are very attuned to how texture affects the appearance of gems. Alternatively, some Western buyers many not even be able to see the slight variations that are apparent to those more familiar with the gem.
But what is this strange feature that matters so much to Asian buyers? Jadeite gems are made up of many individual interlocking crystal grains, and gemologists identify three categories of grain size: fine, medium, and coarse. You may hear these categories called "old mine", "relatively old mine", and "new mine", respectively.
You won't be able to see the individual grains, however, the grain size does affect how light moves through the body of the gem and its durability. Jadeite gems with the smallest grains are exceptionally tough, able to withstand multiple hammer strikes unharmed. They also have an even, smooth appearance and can take on and maintain a high polish. As grain size increases, these characteristics all decrease slightly, as does value.
Interestingly, while you can't see the singular grains of jadeite, it is possible for some people to feel them. Stones with smaller grains are smoother than those with coarse grains. But this difference is extremely slight. Only experts with a lot of practice under their belt can tell the quality of jadeite by touching it.
Stones Should Be as Transparent as Possible
The transparency of jadeite is closely related to texture. Jadeite is never fully transparent, but buyers value gems that are as see-through as possible. Gems with small grains tend to have better transparency than gems with larger grains. They also often have better luster. For green jadeite to earn the title of "Imperial", it must be semi-transparent.
Gems that are semi-transparent to translucent will often be carved into a cabochon and set into a mounting with a closed back which might have a small opening in the center. Light travels through the jadeite and reflects off the metal of the flat mounting, illuminating the gem from the back. This makes stones appear brighter. You will also see lots of beads and flat carvings worn as pendants. All of these shapes encourage light to enter the gem and show off that prized transparency.
There is a rare form of jadeite called "Ice jade" that has gained a strong following in recent years. This white jadeite is almost colorless and is called "Ice" due to its almost transparent appearance.
Matching Is Difficult!
Raw jadeite is found in the form of stones ranging from the size of a small pebble up to gigantic boulders that weigh over a hundred tons. However, the usable jadeite stones from individual rocks often are not perfectly matched. This is because there are so many factors to consider. In large rocks that yield many small pieces of jadeite, different sections may have totally different looking gems. Some regions may have veining patterns while other are solidly colored. Transparency and texture of gems that formed just a few inches apart can also be very different.
As matching is so hard, the value of jewelry featuring multiple identical components climbs quickly. The Hutton-Mdivani necklace mentioned in the introduction of this article was made from 27 beads that not only had the Imperial jadeite color, ideal texture, and transparency, but they were also perfectly matched. If those perfect beads were sold separately, they would not be nearly worth the almost one million that they sold for when combined.
Some Deposits Are Known For Specific Characteristics
Jadeite is found all over the world. However, the chemistry of each deposit differs, resulting in gems that boast some identifiable features.
Myanmar - The most important source to mention is Myanmar because it remains the only source of Imperial jadeite. This material is often called "Burmese jadeite" referencing the historical name for the region.
Guatemala - This small country yields green jadeite that is darker than the Burmese jadeite, but it has become famous for black gems recovered from the Motagua Valley. This striking jadeite gained a great deal of public awareness and demand at the beginning of the millennium. This led to an increase in value. You may hear black jadeite called "Maya Black". Other colors that come from Guatemala include light lavender, a deep blue called "Olmec blue", and Ice jadeite.
United States - There are multiple deposits of jadeite in the US, but mines in California have the highest profile. Material from California is often green, some combination of green and blue, or white. Interestingly, some jadeite has a bubbly structure called "botryoidal" growth.
Shape Can Affect Value
Some Eastern cultures, led by China, consider jadeite a highly spiritual stone with the power to protect their wearer. As such, they prefer to limit manipulation of the gem as much as possible. When they can, they like to fashion circular rings and bangles from a single block of jadeite. The formal name for jewelry of this type is "hololith".
Creating hololith jadeite jewelry is thought to help the gem retain its purity and connection to an eternal spirit. Many wearers choose to never remove their bangles. There is a legend that states that if a bangle breaks whilst being worn, it means that the jadeite intercepted and absorbed ill fortune or even a curse aimed at its wearer.
Carving hololith bangles is precise work, and the diameter is measured by the millimeter. Because the Asian market for jade dwarfs the demand from any other culture, bangles are often made with Asian women in mind. However, that demographic tends to have smaller hands and wrists than ladies from the West. This means that many Western women can't slip on those hololiths. To fix this issue, jewelers will cut the hololith in half and install a hinge so that the piece can open and close. Depending on the value of the jadeite bangle being cut, the hinge may be made from a precious metals. Some especially unique pieces will include other gemstones like rubies or diamonds as highlights. This solution works great for Western buyers, but it devalues the item in Asian cultures as citizens there want their jadeite bangles in one piece.
Also adding to the high value of hololith bangles is the fact that a great deal of jadeite is cut away during the carving process. This results in a high proportion of the stone becoming waste. Buyers of hololiths pay not only for the item itself, but also all of the jadeite that had to be discarded to make the piece.
Size Isn't Such a Big Deal
Most gemstones follow a general rule that larger carat weights lead to higher values. As we have seen before, the jadeite market is a little different. Instead, dealers will tell you that jade is sold by the piece, not the weight. If you were to call a jade dealer and provide only a carat weight for your item, that would not help them to come up with a value estimation. Because the saying "bigger is better" can apply (if only in part) to other gemstones, this can cause confusion amongst people who haven't had much exposure to the jadeite market.
As there is so much variation in the appearance of jadeite, professionals and collectors truly do evaluate individual items for their own characteristics. Size is simply not high on the list of things people generally care about. People are far more interested in color, texture, and transparency. Small pieces of fine quality can sell for much more than larger pieces that have less desirable characteristics. As you look to higher quality stones, people get even more picky about the smallest details.
Additionally, recall that jadeite can form in massive boulders. As such, it is not hard to get huge jadeite blocks that are so large that they can be used by artists to create massive carvings. This widespread availability also factors into why size is not a paramount concern to buyers.
Treatment
When shopping for jadeite, you will see three groups which reference treatments: Type A, Type B, and Type C.
Type A jadeite is by far the most valuable because its surface has been treated only with wax. Remember that jadeite is a conglomerate made from many tiny grains. Waxing the surface of jadeite both smooths out natural pits between grains and seals the surface to protect the gem from external impurities. It does not affect color expression or transparency. As the goal of this traditional treatment is mostly protective, rather than altering the appearance of a gem, it generally does not affect value.
Alternatively, both Type B and Type C describe jadeite that has been treated to change the appearance of stones that are not of fine quality. Using a process developed in the mid-1970s, Type B gems have undergone multiple treatments. First, the jade is bleached in acid to break down yellow and brown oxidation stains. As one might expect, the bleach weakens the stone, making it more brittle than the very durable Type A gems. The raw bleached jadeite is dull and pitted. To fix this issue, the bleached gem is submerged in wax under pressurized conditions. This causes the wax to penetrate the body of the gem, rather than just sitting on the surface, improving both color and transparency. The results of this process can be very realistic, and separating undeclared Type B jadeite from Type A can be a challenge. In some cases, infrared spectroscopy analysis is required to make the distinction.
Type C jadeite involves the same process of Type B and adds dyes. This drastically lowers the value of gems. The biggest problem has to do with how the colored dye interact with the jadeite. Not only does it fade over time, but it concentrates in small cracks and pits. Sometimes you can observe this without magnification.
Seldomly, you may come across jadeite that has been heat treated. This is done to yellowish or brownish gems to create more vivid orange and reddish colors. Heat treatment is stable and often undetectable.
As always, disclosure is key when it comes to treatments. Treated gemstones can be a boon to buyers shopping on a budget, enhancing the beauty of middle to low-quality stones. You just want to make sure that you are fully informed about what you are buying.
A Final Note on Jadeite Value
The finest jadeite is a difficult gem to price. Value depends not only on physical characteristics of gems, but also the culture in which the stones are being sold. American buyers are keenly attuned to color while others care more about the texture. Additionally, the form of the carved jadeite can matter a great deal to wearers with individuals from Eastern cultures who desire jewelry made from a block of jadeite. Alternatively, many Westerners have no problem with jewelry that has multiple parts.
While strands of flawlessly matched Imperial jadeite are not accessible to most people, it is fortunate that not all jadeite sells for millions of dollars! Some of the other colors are far more affordable, even those that are of fine quality. Also, some people are drawn to gems that are more opaque which are valued less than more transparent options. If you are shopping on a tight budget, look for jewelry that has only one piece of jadeite or mixes gems of multiple colors. That way you don't have to pay for someone to take the time and energy required to locate matching stones.
With so many factors to consider, take your time when shopping for jadeite jewelry and look at a lot of items. You will quickly identify which characteristic attracts your attention. Trust your eyes!
Emily Frontiere
Emily Frontiere is a GIA Graduate Gemologist. She is particularly experienced working with estate/antique jewelry.
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