United States Faceters Guild 2005
Novice Stone Design – Single Stone Competition
Mistress by Jeff R. Graham
Mistress – Cutting Remarks
The 3.75 carat Zambian Aquamarine “Mistress” at left is 9.2mm x 6.7mm deep cut by Jeff R. Graham
I wanted to design a stone that would look like, and have the flash of a “Princess” cut like my “Gram Princess” and work well in lower refractive index stones. Also I wanted to create a design that would help improve light colors like most typical Beryls are readily available in.
I have had a lot of people and customers ask me for a “Princess” in Aquamarine. As a matter of fact it is hard to believe how many customers have asked me for a “Gram Princess” in Aquamarine. So that was another good reason to create a design like this.
Because of the multiple tiers on the Pavilion of a traditional “Princess” the design tends to be not great in low refractive index materials like Beryl. So one of the key things in creating this design was to simplify the pavilion and get good performance.
Another important aspect that I wanted was a design that would not have an over powering light return. Because having a very high light return tends to wash out lightly saturated colors, like Beryls. One of the things that I find works well in light saturation stones is to use light and dark reflections to make the stone look darker. Notice that the light return on this design is 79.6%. I have purposely set the crown deep, it helps with weight retention and improves color.
Also, but not in the least I wanted a design that would cut fast and easily, but still look like a “Princes”. I think this design meets all of my goals and it is fun to cut.
Note1: This was proof cut by a USFG member in Spinel, which I am told came out quite nice… “Mistress” can be cut in Quartz ( angles – P1 43.51, P3 40.50) quite easily and the light return is almost identical.
This design is made specifically for Beryl and works best in that material, but can be cut in about any material. The critcal angle is very close on the pavilion of this design to Beryl, so it is important that your machine be accurate.
Random – Cosine – ISO
Detailed faceting instructions by Jeff Graham available at The Rock Peddler