Jeff R. Graham

Can you tell if gem rough is too expensive? Learn how to estimate rough gemstone value by considering your gem yield and the prices for your faceted…

What does it take to succeed at cutting and selling gemstones? Jeff Graham offers newcomers some advice on treating faceting like a business.

How much and how fast do you have to work if you want to make a living cutting gems? Jeff Graham has some advice for those who want to enter the business.…

Gem cutter Daniel Starr gave his “Hammers” gem design to the faceting community. Here, he describes his design and gives advice for cutting…

Gem cutter Daniel Starr gave his “Stripes and Blades” gem design to the faceting community. Here, he describes his design and gives advice…

Cutting corundum gems — rubies and sapphires — can be difficult. Learn how to handle this material by faceting a simple heart ruby from lab-created…

Jeff Graham’s Simple Heart gem design is ideal for small stones. It only needs the bare minimum number of facets for a nice heart shape.

All animal lovers have lost a friend at one time or another. Jeff Graham created “Memory,” an intermediate-level gem design, in honor of a dog…

The Mistress gem design by Jeff Graham looks like a princess cut but works well with light-colored stones. Learn more about this design for novice…

Can you rely on gemstone certificates to reveal everything that can affect the value of pricey gems? Learn what to look for when you have a gem certified.…

Many square gem designs lack appeal because they’re not very bright. Jeff Graham’s Chinese Checker cut combines good light return with a square…

Inspired by the classic children’s toy, Jeff Graham’s award-winning Pin Wheel gem design is easy to cut and makes a very interesting stone.…

The Signature #4 is Jeff Graham’s favorite trillion cut for light-colored gemstones. This popular design is also fast and easy to cut.

Jeff Graham’s Utopia gem design is a large Barion pear cut for light to medium-colored stones. Learn about this advanced design for experienced…

Gem cutters use the “length-to-width” or L/W ratio to determine how to cut rough gems. Learn how to choose gem designs based on a stone’s L/W…

Jeff Graham’s Rose Heart gem design has a lot of steps but not many facets. It’s fast and easy to cut and works especially well with garnets.

Checkered hearts make popular gem cuts. Jeff Graham’s Heart Squared design works well with any medium to light-colored material.

Jeff Graham’s original Rainbow gem design has always been popular. However, inexperienced faceters have found it very challenging. This updated…

Jeff Graham’s CheckMate gem design is a great choice for quartz or beryl earrings, especially for large stones in medium to light colors.

Jeff Graham’s Brilliant Pear gem design will produce a pleasingly shaped stone, ideal for novice faceters. Professionals will also like this…

Jeff Graham’s Smith Bar gem design is easy to cut. One Smith Bar gem has even found its way into the Smithsonian Institution. Learn the story behind…

Jeff Graham’s Cornered is a checkerboard cut suitable for gem material that’s too dark or large for a standard design.

Easy to cut, the Gram Easy Emerald by Jeff Graham will maximize gem yield. This design and its cutting sequence will also accommodate stones with…

The Portuguese cut works wonderfully for very deep gemstones with high refractive indices. Jeff Graham’s Simple Portuguese, a modification…

A rectangular redesign based on A. Nagy’s classic princess cut for diamonds, the Gram Prince by Jeff Graham works well in light to medium-color…

Introduced in 1960, the classic princess by A. Nagy was an economical cut for flat diamond crystals. However, this popular design doesn’t lend…

Inspired by faceted shell and mother of pearl buttons from the Roaring Twenties, the Button design by Jeff Graham is a simple cut perfect for large,…

Want to cut a gemstone the size of a door knob? Jeff Graham’s Sonoran Snowflake gem design is for you. Suitable for gems 15 mm and over in size, this…

Due to the single-fold symmetry of heart gem designs, most hearts can be tedious and time consuming to cut. Jeff Graham’s “B” Still My Heart…

The Tzar gem design by Jeff Graham works best for large, light-colored stones. This cut will make a very interesting, different gemstone.

Danburite is a beautiful but underappreciated gemstone. Jeff Graham’s White Asterism cut can take full advantage of this gem’s qualities.…

Jeff Graham’s Blue Ice gem design is easy to cut. It performs well for gems with low refractive indices like beryl and quartz. It’s a great choice…

Jeff Graham’s Blink cut is a great design for tourmalines. When viewed straight on, every facet reflects light, but if you rock the stone it will…

A “Money Cut” is a gem design that’s fast and easy with great performance. That’s what Jeff Graham’s Light House cut is all about. This…

Jeff Graham’s Tic Tac gem design is ideal for earrings. It shows an interesting “X” pattern on the crown. Learn more about this fast cut with…

“The Mumble” by Jeff Graham can be cut with or without a table and is well suited for medium to light colored quartz, tourmaline, topaz, or peridot.…

Jeff Graham’s SweetHeart cut shows great flash and dispersion. It’s a good choice for novices trying to cut their first heart design and experts…

Jeff Graham’s Aqua Cisir cut is ideal for quartz and beryl gemstones and has exceptional flash and yield. Intermediate and professional-level…

Precious metal clay is just what it sounds like: fine silver or gold ground extremely small and suspended in a binder to create clay. For both novice…

Sintered laps are expensive, metal/diamond bonded gem cutting laps. Are they worth the investment? Learn about their advantages and disadvantages.…

How should novice faceters choose their first gemstones? Learn which gem rough materials combine cutting ease, low cost, good size, and profit…

Selling lab-created cut gems can be quite difficult. Learn what makes this market hard to crack and the best ways to make money cutting synthetic…

If you’re cutting natural rough gems, learn to expect fractures. Stress from an unknown flaw can break out during roughing, faceting, or even…

All gem designs balance multiple factors that affect the stone’s appearance. Before tweaking a design, consider the overall goal for the finished…

Cutting the right size girdle for a gem can be difficult. Learn how girdles and jewelry settings affect each other and how best to measure girdle…

How can a custom gem faceter compete with commercial cutting houses? Learn how cut stone sizes, gem quality, and expert cutting can make a difference.…

Gem stress can cause stones to break during faceting. Learn what techniques may reduce the odds of fracturing and how to spot problem rough before…

Natural and synthetic quartz rough are both inexpensive. Nevertheless, learn why novice faceters should practice with the natural material…

Cutting crystals for the best gem yield is a critical skill for faceters. This walkthrough can help novices learn how to visualize the gems before…

What constitutes a princess cut? Jeff Graham examines a variety of diamonds sold as examples of this design and identifies their overall characteristics.…

Can an apex crown improve a gem’s tilt brightness? See how a gram wagon wheel gem design will affect your gem and how it compares to a round brilliant.…

Can you create and cut a gem design to make the most of a stone’s tilt brilliance? Learn whether your gem will benefit from this consideration.

Barion cut designs aren’t just for diamonds. Jeff Graham offers some advice for faceting this style as well as choosing the right gemstones for…

A color wheel and mixing chart can help novice gem cutters evaluate how well colors will mix in a finished piece. Learn how to utilize these common…

Gem rough orientation isn’t always simple. Sometimes the obvious cut may not be the best choice. Learn how orienting rough can affect gem yields…

How can gem cutters predict the color that gem rough will likely show when cut? Learn how the simple white paper test can help you buy the right material.…

Problem gem rough can challenge novice faceters. Learn how to judge colors so you can orient such a stone and cut for the best color in the finished…

Novice faceters need to build beneficial business relationships with jewelers. To do this, learn how to manage gemstone repair work (and when…

Emerald treatments, such as oiling, are very common. Learn what these techniques do, how emeralds are graded, and what gems make great green alternatives,…

Rare chrome tourmaline can show an emerald-like green color. With a highly desired color and tourmaline’s excellent jewelry stone qualities,…

Our indicolite buying guide can help you learn how these blue tourmalines are graded, what to avoid, and how to identify a high-quality stone.

Evaluating the C axis of a tourmaline crystal is important, but gem cutters lack a way to describe what they see accurately. I’m proposing a system…

Looking for a tourmaline jewelry stone? If you like green and you’re on a budget, green tourmaline or verdelite is the gem for you.

Like all tourmaline gemstones, rubellite wears well in almost any type of jewelry. This stone’s raspberry-like color draws a great deal of attention.…

Two major problems plague the cut gemstone market: undisclosed gem treatments and substitutions of synthetic for natural gems. Gem buyers need…

Most gem cutters prefer using scored polishing laps. They work better and faster than non-scored laps. Learn how to score and break in your lap.…

Garnet and tourmaline are popular jewelry stones. Learn to use the best techniques, abrasives, and laps for polishing garnets and tourmalines.…

What’s the best abrasive for polishing natural gems? An oxide polish is usually the best option. Learn the different uses of oxide and diamond polishes.…

Can you turn dark saturated rough gems into facetable material? Learn how to pick the right cuts and heat treatments and, importantly, when to just…

Gems with odd symmetry designs include popular trillions and unusual 7-sided stones. Learn the limitations and possibilities of these cuts.…

Using the right gem cutting abrasives is critical for gem cutters. Our grit, mesh, and micron conversion chart will help you choose the correct…

Can gem grading avoid subjective terms? Learn about gemologist Jeff Graham’s common sense gemstone grading system, an alternative to commercial…

Telling African paraiba from Brazilian paraiba tourmalines is difficult. This gallery showcases bright neon specimens from Nigeria and Mozambique.…

The dichroscope is used to distinguish the colors of pleochroic gems. Learn how this tool can help you identify gems and choose the best faceting…

Telling synthetic rough from natural stones in a gem parcel can be challenging. These tips can help you find some telltale signs of lab-created…

What’s the difference between synthetic, simulated, and created gemstones? Learn the definitions (and gray areas) of these commonly used terms.…

There’s more to aquamarine color than blue. Most natural stones start blue-green and are heated to blue. Learn the pros and cons of this treatment.…

Considering buying gems in Afghanistan? Learn which Afghan gemstones to seek out, which to avoid, and prepare for a “buyer beware” experience.…

Information and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this is the “Round Brilliant…

Information and guide on Faceting Designs. An Online Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this is called “Three…

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Information and guide on Faceting Designs. An Online Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this is called “Little…

A faceting design and diagram created by our guest designer, Mike Hamren. This facet design is called “North Star”. Learn more about this facet…

A facet design created by a guest designer Dave Dening. This design is called the “Celtic Cross” which was made as memento for his wife and sister-in-law.…

Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Topaz…

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Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called ” Walking…

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Tips and guide on Faceting Designs. Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Double Cross Square”.…

Information and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this cut is called “Four Square…

Tips, details, and a guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “North…

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Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Half-High”.…

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Helpful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Shadow Box…

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Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Queens…

Information and guide for Faceting Design Diagrams. This design is called a ” “CC” Triangle”. Roughing in the table before you cut the C5 is a good…

Successful tips, details and guide on Faceting Designs. Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

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Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Rattle…

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Successful tips, details, and guide on Faceting Designs. Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

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Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Torque…

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Successful tips, details, and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

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Successful tips, details, and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

Detailed information and guide for Faceting Design Diagrams. This facet design is called a ” “A” Dome”. This works well in any lightly saturated…

Successful tips, details, and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

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Detailed information and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

Detailed information and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

Successful tips, details and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

Successful tips, details and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

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Detailed information and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Lilac…

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Tourmaline (Achroite, Dravite, Rubellite, Indicolite, Verdelite, Siberite) Liner (B3.JRG) By Jeff R. Graham Copyright 2001 88.8% Light Return…

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Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Flat…

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Successful tips, details, and guide on Faceting Designs. Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

Details and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Temple Glass…

Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Cross…

Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Universal…

Detailed information and guide on Faceting Designs. Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Striped…

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Detailed information and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Twist…

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Detailed information and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

Information and guide for Faceting Design Diagrams. This facet design is called a ” “B” Oval”. The P11(G) can be cut in earlier, after cutting the…

Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Green-“O”…

Successful tips, details, and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Ups “E”…

Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Little…

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Tips, details, and a guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Np-Point”.…

Detailed information and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

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Detailed information and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

Successful tips, details and guide on Faceting Designs. Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

An informational guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Checker…

Detailed information and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

Helpful tips, details and guide on Faceting Designs. Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Step…

Detailed information and guide for Faceting Design Diagrams. This facet design is called a “Light Star”. It has a nice light return, higher than…

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Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Fanned…

Information and guide for Faceting Design Diagrams. This facet design is called a ” “Malt” Squared”. This design is good for light to medium material.…

Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Straight…

Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Cut Corner…

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Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Spin’in…

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Detailed information and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called…

Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Quickie…

Successful tips and guide on Faceting Designs. A Faceting Design Diagram by Jeff R. Graham that presents various cuts, this one is called “Mixed…