topaz ring - transposing faceting angles
topaz ring - transposing faceting angles

A Simple Method for Transposing Faceting Angles


Can something akin to a slide rule help novice faceters today with transposing faceting angles from published gem designs? Check out the calculation-free nomogram method.

5 Minute Read

Conversion Methods and Their Shortcomings

One of the first problems beginning faceters encounter is converting published faceting designs to forms suitable for materials besides quartz. Virtually all published designs use angles optimized for quartz. Since other materials have different refractive indices and critical angles, they require cutting their facets at different angles. These must differ from the original design in order to optimize optical performance or avoid a "fish eye" stone.

One of the simplest conversion methods requires adding or subtracting a fixed number of degrees from the design angles. You can follow published tables of recommended angles for crown and pavilion mains for different materials.

For example, to convert a design from quartz angles to topaz, check such a table. You find that quartz pavilion mains are cut at 43° and topaz at 39°. So, subtract 4° from the quartz pavilion angles in the original design to obtain the topaz pavilion angles. For every facet in the design, simply repeat this subtraction. Thus, to convert a set of facets cut at 57° in the original quartz design, cut them 4° lower, at 53°, for topaz.

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Dr. Clive Washington

Senior Lecturer, University of Nottingham, U.K.

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