Idar Oberstein Gem Cutting: What Is It?

The demand for the next new thing defines the Modern Age. However, this expectation of significant developments in rapid succession is a recent occurrence. For most of human history, if you wanted to find the most exceptional and innovative items, you did not look to new start-up companies led by young visionaries. Instead, you went to where craftsmen perfected their art and passed that knowledge on to later generations. Fortunately, some of these old hubs of excellence remain active. In the world of gemstone carvings, that center is Idar-Oberstein, Germany.

At the GJX show in Tucson, a whole tent is dedicated to Idar-Oberstein artists specifically. There you will find some of the world's best gemstone specimens that have been shaped and sculpted by the local experts. We spoke with several artists and representatives who both explained traditional carving techniques and highlighted some of the new design innovations being pioneered by the current generation.

History of Idar Oberstein Gem Cutting

To understand the unrivaled reputation held by Idar-Oberstein artisans, you need to know why the area became a haven for carvers in the first place. Located in Birkenfeld County, the town of Idar-Oberstein is relatively small with a population that hovers around 30,000 people. This community may be modest and the town picturesque, but don't be fooled - this city is a global center. 

It is no accident that Idar-Oberstein came to house so many of the world's most skilled gemstone carvers. About five hundred years ago, miners unearthed beautiful agate which they polished using native sandstone. Later, deposits of other gems including amethyst, carnelian, chalcedony, and jasper were identified. What all these gemstones have in common is a Mohs hardness score that roughly falls between six and seven. That means they are soft enough to be carved, yet sufficiently strong to take on fine detail and last. Over the centuries, skilled carvers came to Idar-Oberstein to work on the local gems and settled there.

It is an unfortunate truth that gemstones are a limited resource and, by the nineteenth century, the supply of agate at Idar-Oberstein was largely depleted. However, by that time, multiple generations of master carvers called the area their home, and the economy of the whole region depended on their work. Their only choice was to take advantage of new, convenient global trade routes and seek out foreign gemstones. Thanks to the well-established reputation of the Idar-Oberstein carvers, people from all over the world happily sent some of their best stones to Germany. Local carvers found themselves working on exotic gems like Australian opal and Sri Lankan moonstone. Of particular note was Brazilian product which included emerald, multiple varieties of quartz, and tourmaline.

Idar Oberstein Gem Cutting Today

Today, Idar-Oberstein remains one of the best places for young artists to learn the craft of fine gemstone carving, hence it's special tent at GJX. Iris Hartenberger of H&T Carvings, said plainly, "Idar Oberstein is the only place in the world where you can learn this profession. Carvers must successfully complete a three-year apprenticeship under the supervision of a Master to earn the title for themselves."

Many of the artists who show at the GJX tent have a distinct style and add personal touches to time-honored techniques. Such carvers report that a large percentage of their business is custom work commissioned by clients whose personal aesthetic mirrors theirs. While different artists all have their signature styles, they employ the same few fundamental techniques: intaglio carving, reverse intaglio, and three-dimensional sculpting. These techniques may be embellished with painting (pigment or enamel) and/or set with a protective backing. 

Modern Techniques and Materials

Intaglio carving is an ancient technique with the earliest examples being thousands of years old. It simply describes the etching of the surface of a stone to create a recessed design. Some of the ancient intaglio carvings were merely decorative. However, some patterns had official purposes such as seals indicating the identity of the person who composed/authorized a written document. Many different types of gemstones can take on carved intaglio patterns, including the high-quality banded agate found at Idar-Oberstein.

Banded agate is characterized by at least two distinct layers of different colors. There is the classic black and white pattern, but many color combinations are possible. You might get lucky and see an engraving with three layers of color. Intaglio carving into banded agate involves carefully carving away the top layer(s) of stone to the lower color. This leaves you with a raised image in one color, and a background of a different hue. Hartenberger explained that this can be done with hand tools, but H&T Carvings uses modern diamond drills to speed along the process.

Idar Oberstein's Role in the International Gem Market

Diane Griswold Johnston of The Lapis Tree, Ltd. proudly proclaimed that she "is one of the first Americans to invest in the multi-generational trade of Idar-Oberstein carved gems." She acts as an international representative for many carvers, including one who goes by the name "Lorenz". Lorenz, Johnston explained, is a young engraver who specializes in the original medium of Idar-Oberstein carvers, layered agate. Lorenz updates the traditional technique by carving stones with unconventional colors and adding metals and gems to create mixed-medium pieces. 

The reverse intaglio carving technique is exactly what it sounds like - etching into the bottom surface of a gemstone rather than the top. This is done on transparent gems because low translucency does not allow you to see through the stone and admire the delicate engraving underneath. Perhaps the most famous genre of reverse intaglio is Essex Crystal, which was developed in the mid-nineteenth century. Carvers take clear rock crystal cabochons, carve a design into the bottom of the stone, paint it, and finally secure the work by placing a backing that historically was made of mother-of-pearl. 

At the booth for Pauly, The Art of Carving, Gaby Pauly, the wife of the master carver Hans-Ulrich Pauly, explained that her husband is one of the few artists who creates Essex Crystal items. Like Lorenz, Pauly has found a way to put a personalized, modern stamp on his work, particularly with his Old Masters Line. With this series, Pauly uses painted reverse intaglio carvings in rock crystal, but, instead of using the traditional mother-of-pearl for the background, he uses alternative gems whose natural patterns echo the background of the inspiration painting. 

Not all carving is done on flat surfaces. Some artists take blocks of gemstones and create highly detailed, three-dimensional sculptures. Stefan Klein is a fourth-generation Idar-Oberstein carver who honors the skill of his forebearers by utilizing only traditional tools - nothing mechanized. His grandfather, Herbert Klein, founded Herbert Klein OHG in 1946, and Stefan keeps the brand alive using many different types of gemstones to create one-of-a-kind figurines. His GJX booth contained pieces made of amethyst, turquoise, aquamarine, and tourmaline. Gabriel Klein explained that Stefan does his best to honor the gems he carves by allowing the natural shape to dictate the ultimate form of the piece. 

Gabriel Klein further explained that one of the advantages of three-dimensional design is that you are not bound to work on transparent gems. In fact, using an opaque medium sometimes allows the viewer to admire delicate details more easily. Johnston added that many of the artists represented by The Lapis Tree specialize in what she calls "hyper-realistic animal carvings". 

As carvers have their own artistic signatures, you get to know their personalities by looking at their work. Browsing booths at the shows, you see that some companies like to have an extra bit of fun. Hartenberger expressed quite a bit of enthusiasm when showing off, what she called "a very modern concept" carving of the famous beagle Snoopy from the Peanuts comic strip by Charles M. Schulz.

As mentioned above, many Idar-Oberstein artists do quite a bit of custom work. Hartenberger estimated that about 90% of all items created by H&T Carvings are done upon request. The process, she said, starts with an initial consultation focused on an inspirational image. That image might be anything meaningful to the client. From there, sketches are made, and a final design is decided. How long it takes for the carving to be made depends on the size of the piece and the level of detail that is required, with wait times typically ranging from a few weeks to several months. When asked about the common themes for custom work coming into Pauly, The Art of Carving, Gaby Pauly said that images of beloved family pets are among the most common requests.

While some of the modern carvers update classic designs by adding more complicated techniques or using unconventional gems, some artists like to keep things simple. Hans-Ulrich Pauly is capable of doing both. In addition to his highly detailed and abstract work, his GJX booth showcased beautifully simple intaglio and reverse intaglio carvings that he pairs with contemporary inspiration. 

At the other end of the spectrum, Pauly executes carvings that ancient or medieval artists could never dream of. In particular, he considers himself a specialist in wildlife portraits. As for what mediums he uses to realize his vision, his wife Gaby said, "he will carve anything that doesn't resist."

Conclusion: The Timeless Legacy of Gem Carving

Exploring the Idar-Oberstein tent and seeing the incredible innovation of contemporary artists, one is filled with wonder at how such an ancient art form that involves only a handful of basic techniques can be so fresh and exciting. One thing is certain: gemstone carving is a dynamic field held aloft by the newest generation of the world's most highly skilled artists. Rather than recreating stale motifs, carvers continue to push the art into the future by utilizing new gems and design inspirations.