sapphire wedding set - vintage engagement ring
sapphire wedding set - vintage engagement ring

Vintage Engagement Rings: Guide to Four Eras


Vintage engagement rings come in many different styles, but designs from four eras are very popular today. Learn more and find that perfect vintage ring.

7 Minute Read

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Why?
What, exactly, does "vintage" mean?

A soon-to-be-engaged friend once asked me this while he was trying to choose a ring. Whether the love of your life wants a vintage engagement ring or you're just "window shopping," don't worry. The explanation is actually very simple.

In this article, you'll learn what makes a ring "vintage" and the different styles and design elements vintage engagement rings might have. Then, we'll give you some examples of modern yet vintage-inspired designs as well as some authentic vintage rings.

sapphire wedding set - vintage engagement ring
This wedding set shows design elements from many eras: a Victorian-inspired halo, Edwardian filigree, and a touch of modern asymmetry in the pear-shaped side stones. © CustomMade. Used with permission.
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What Makes an Engagement Ring "Vintage"?

"Vintage" refers to anything at least 20 years old, while "antique" refers to anything at least 100 years old. When it comes to engagement rings, "vintage" usually signifies the ring's style rather than its age. In general, if you're looking for a vintage engagement ring, you're really looking for a modern, vintage-style engagement ring setting.

If you're visualizing a simple engagement ring, you're most likely looking for a design from the "Retro Era" (1940-1960). However, most other vintage designs tend to be more ornate.

If your spouse-to-be frequents second-hand shops, they might prefer an older ring to a vintage-inspired modern one. Check out antique shops and ask family members for any heirloom rings you could have. If you're going this route, read our article on antique engagement rings.

Time Saving Shortcuts

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Eras and Inspiration for Vintage Engagement Rings

Aside from age, there's not much to dictate style for vintage engagement rings. Technically, even relatively modern rings from the 1990s can be considered "vintage." However, we'll discuss four eras that modern vintage styles frequently emulate. See what catches your eye.

Victorian Era (1835-1900)

In the Victorian Era, engagement rings vary widely in designs and materials.  (In fact, Victorian jewelry can be subdivided into early, middle, and late period styles). However, Victorian rings were generally yellow or rose gold and often included diamonds. Rows, halos, and clusters of diamonds became popular during this era. So, in some ways, a yellow gold double-halo ring could be an example of a Victorian-inspired vintage engagement ring.

rows of diamonds - vintage engagement ring
With a nod to floral design and many tiny diamonds, this designer engagement ring strongly evokes Victorian style. Check it out. © James Allen. Used with permission.
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at James Allen

Popular Colors

Since blue was the eponymous Queen Victoria's favorite color, turquoise and blue enamel appeared often in jewelry from this period. Pearls were also featured frequently. Since perliculture hadn't been perfected yet, pearls in jewelry from this era were natural, and small seed pearls were more common than larger ones. Other white gemstones like moonstone and opal were also popular.

halo ring with seed pearls - vintage engagement ring
With a halo setting and seed pearl accents, this vintage engagement ring is a good example of Victorian design. © CustomMade. Used with permission.
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Diamond Cuts

Although large diamonds were uncommon at this time, consumers began to wear diamond solitaires. However, most diamonds were old mine cuts, old European cuts, step cuts, or rose cuts, since modern diamond cuts like the round brilliant hadn't been invented yet

rose cut diamond - vintage engagement ring
The sweet simplicity of a rose-cut diamond can give any engagement ring a vintage feel. © CustomMade. Used with permission.
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at CustomMade

Victorian Motifs

Popular Victorian motifs included bows, hearts, birds, and snakes. Navette or marquise shapes were also popular, either as a gemstone shape or in the overall design. In addition, the bypass setting was popular during this period (another common choice for modern styles as well).

Victorian era engagement ring with a 1.23-ct old mine-cut diamond center stone set in yellow gold, circa 1880. Photo © Estate Diamond Jewelry. Used with permission.

Edwardian Era (1900-1920)

If you're into intricate, lacy designs, you'll love jewelry from the Edwardian Era.

platinum filigree - vintage engagement ring
Scrolling details on this platinum vintage engagement ring were typical of Edwardian design. Check out this ring. © James Allen. Used with permission.
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at James Allen

Rings from this period were generally platinum and included intricate metalwork called filigree in designs featuring scrolling, ribbons, and vines. Floral motifs were also popular.

Edwardian era engagement ring with a 4.30-ct antique cushion-cut diamond center stone set in platinum, circa 1910. The openwork filigree on the sides of the ring has a leaf motif. Photo © Estate Diamond Jewelry. Used with permission.

Although diamonds and pearls continued to be popular, colored gemstones appeared in jewelry more frequently. Old mine cuts, old European cuts, and rose cuts were the most common cuts for diamonds in this period.

aquamarine wth vining - vintage engagement ring
Nature-inspired filigree took root in Edwardian jewelry. © CustomMade. Used with permission.
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at CustomMade

Art Deco Era (1920-1940)

In contrast to the lacy lightness of Edwardian styles, Art Deco was all about bold geometry and repeating patterns. Instead of curvy, flowing filigree, Art Deco rings often included metalwork with repeating, sharp angles and tiny beads called milgrain. This style has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity in recent years.

  • art deco octagon halo and milgrain - vintage engagement rings
    The octagon halo, milgrain, and step-cut diamonds in the band are elements of Art Deco style. Check out this ring. © James Allen. Used with permission.

  • art deco bold colors - vintage engagement rings
    Bold, open, geometric design with lots of color makes this Art Deco ring stand out. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

  • art deco geometric design - vintage engagement rings
    This ring also incorporates geometric elements. The asscher-cut diamond is another popular choice for an Art Deco vintage engagement ring. Take a look at the video. © James Allen. Used with permission.
  • open design art deco - vintage engagement rings
    Another example of open design, the repeating geometry in this topaz engagement ring is certainly Art Deco. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

    Step-cut diamonds like emerald and asscher cuts became fashionable, and colored gemstones, especially rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, were especially popular.

    Art Deco engagement ring with a 0.94-ct old European-cut diamond center stone, set in platinum, circa 1930. Photo © Estate Diamond Jewelry. Used with permission.

    However, during the Great Depression, many consumers couldn't afford these expensive gemstones, so they opted for more affordable alternatives instead, including amethyst, citrine, garnet, and glass.

    Retro Era (1940-1960)

    Prior to World War II, few engagement rings featured a center diamond. However, after the highly successful De Beers diamond marketing campaign, which began in the 1940s, engagement rings almost exclusively featured diamonds.

    round diamond with baguette side stones - vintage engagement ring
    Simply beautiful, the round-cut diamond in rose gold with baguette diamonds was a popular choice in the 1950s and has seen a comeback. © CustomMade. Used with permission.
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    at CustomMade

    Unlike earlier rings, engagement rings from this "Retro Era" featured simpler designs. Solitaire rings and baguette side stones were quite popular, and the typical size of the center stone grew larger once the Depression ended.

    Retro era engagement ring with a 0.75-ct transitional-cut diamond center stone set in platinum, circa 1940. Photo © Estate Diamond Jewelry. Used with permission.

    Since the non-military use of platinum was banned during World War II, yellow and rose gold became the metals of choice for engagement rings in the United States during this period. Many rings from this era were two-toned, with both yellow gold and white gold in the design.

    A modern round brilliant diamond in a simple gold design might just describe your grandmother's engagement ring, and this nostalgia makes these rings popular today.

    De Beers advertisement - vintage engagement rings
    The De Beers "A Diamond is Forever" tagline and campaign played a major role in establishing diamonds as the stone of choice for most engagement rings. A De Beers advertisement in the August 1960 Reader's Digest. Photo by Sensei Alan. Licensed under CC By 2.0.

    Engagement Rings from Recent Decades

    In the 1960s, Jacqueline Kennedy's two-stone diamond and emerald engagement ring brought colored gemstones back into fashion. Art Deco styles were also popular.

    In the late 1970s, disco styles were bold and large. Rings from this decade also featured geometric designs.

    Vintage M. Buccellati engagement ring with a 1.07-ct round brilliant-cut diamond center stone set in white and yellow gold, circa 1970. Photo © Estate Diamond Jewelry. Used with permission.

    In the 1980s, Princess Diana's famous sunburst halo sapphire engagement ring inspired a wave of imitations. Colored gemstones and pear shapes were popular.

    The 1990s are the most recent decade that can be considered "vintage." Designs were bold and minimalistic, and marquise-cut diamonds were especially popular.

    Vintage Engagement Ring Designs

    Vintage engagement rings often incorporate aspects of styles from multiple eras, blending them into something new. Check out these rings that combine elements of Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco design.

    • ribbons and hearts two-tone - vintage engagement rings
      In this vintage engagement ring, the metals appear like ribbons forming a heart shape, elements of Victorian or Edwardian jewelry. However, using two-tone metals and a relatively small, minimalistic design evokes the Retro Era. © CustomMade. Used with permission.
    • ruby double halo with chevrons - vintage engagement rings
      Using a double halo around a marquise-shaped ruby is a clear indication of Victorian inspiration. However, the chevron shapes on the side give this ring an Art Deco element. © CustomMade. Used with permission.
    • floral halo pearl ring sketch - vintage engagement rings
      This pearl engagement ring features Edwardian-style floral filigree, Victorian-inspired halo, and Art Deco geometric patterns to the side. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

    • open art deco milgrain - vintage engagement rings
      With broad, open design and plenty of milgrain, this ring is clearly Art Deco-inspired. However, the marquise-shaped emerald is a nod to Victorian style. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

      Some vintage-inspired engagement rings incorporate modern design aspects, too. Take a look at how these rings blend the old with the new.

      • square halo - vintage engagement rings
        Although the strong angles and geometry might make you think Art Deco or the 1970s, the small size is part of a recent minimalistic trend. © CustomMade. Used with permission.
      • modern art deco sketch - vintage engagement rings
        While the chevrons and geometric details are completely Art Deco, the asymmetry in the octagon halo is a modern design element. © CustomMade. Used with permission.
      • ruby and onyx bypass - vintage engagement rings
        While the bypass ring became popular in the Victorian Era, square-shaped stones were not widespread until the 1970s. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

        Not Sure What Kind of Ring to Get?

        If you're planning a surprise proposal and you're not sure what kind of ring to get, start by checking with friends and family. Pinterest and Instagram are always good places to look for ideas.

        You can also start by asking yourself some basic style questions to help narrow your search. For example, does your intended prefer nature-inspired designs or geometric patterns? Lots of diamonds in elaborate settings or fewer stones in simpler styles?

        Where Should I Shop for a Vintage Engagement Ring?

        If you're buying online, James Allen has a great selection of beautiful vintage engagement rings. Plus, they're the best place online to shop for a center diamond. So, if you want a diamond engagement ring, you'll be able to find the stone that's perfect for you.

        However, even if you're picking from a few dozen vintage engagement rings, you still might not find that perfect one. If you're looking for a truly unique vintage-style engagement ring, choose CustomMade. Their experts will help you create the perfect ring, even if you're not quite sure what you want yet.


        Addison Rice

        A geologist, environmental engineer and Caltech graduate, Addison’s interest in the mesmerizing and beautiful results of earth’s geological processes began in her elementary school’s environmental club. When she isn’t writing about gems and minerals, Addison spends winters studying ancient climates in Iceland and summers hiking the Colorado Rockies.

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